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05-08-2012, 08:29 AM
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The Watch Snob is in.How Much More Precise Are High Frequency Watches?Dear Snob,It seems like a lot of watchmakers are putting outmovements that beat at higher frequencies (I think Breguet introduced a movement at BaselWorldthat beats at 10 Hz). I can understand the claim that it increases precision, but howdifficult is it to actually produce such a movement and how much more precise are they? Is10 Hz that much better or that much more difficult to produce than 4 Hz or even 8Hz?A fine question and one for which I, and the other three readers whotruly care about horology, thank you. Those of you interested in matching your strap toyour shoes or which over-sized, overpriced sports watch to buy, you can skip ahead totoday’s third question.Many of the innovations and features watchmakersare devising these days are merely to prove what can be done, but done in the name ofprecision or utility. If watchmaking were purely about precision timekeeping, we could sayit reached its zenith with the development of the thermocompensated quartz movement or thesatellite-linked digital watch. But watchmaking is as much art as it is science. WhilePicasso was adept at realistic drawings, he chose to continually reinvent and challengehimself and that is what we know him for. So too haute horlogerie watchmakerspursue precision within the self-imposed confines of mechanical means. And this is why youdon’t see display casebacks on quartz watches.It is a known fact that the higher the frequency, the more precise a watchmovement will be. For most of horology’s history, watches have run at a balancefrequency of 18,000 oscillations per hour -- five ticks per second or 2.5 Hertz. Thisnumber represented the long-held limit of accepted durability of components, mainspringpower and lubrication. As technology and techniques advanced, this frequency was increasedto 3 Hz and 4 Hz, and the latter number is still the most common currently used.Of course, some Zeniths run at 5 Hz, and now the Breguet Classique Chronometrie runs at10 Hz, which, in theory, makes them more precise. But this does come at a cost: morefrequent service is required, in addition to tighter tolerances and lubricationrequirements. So to answer one of your questions, yes, high frequency movements are morechallenging to produce for a watch that will remain reliable for any length of time.To answer your other question about precision -- even a movement with a lower beatrate can be adjusted to great precision. While I am not one to obsessively track theaccuracy of my timepieces, I can say with some certainty that my 40-year-old Patek with a2.5 Hz movement keeps near perfect time.Class dismissed.The Values Of The SnobHi there,I have run into a conundrum regarding your rationalefor valuing certain watchmakers (e.g., Patek, A.Lange). A large part of what you value is their history and tradition of watchmaking,no? But isn’t this a dead end? If you assign less value to a timepiece which lackshistory and tradition, you would likely not purchase it or give a favorable impression inyour column, and the business would be less likely to flourish and develop any history ortradition. How will the next Patek be born under your system?Ithink you have sorely misinterpreted my opinions. I do not dismiss a timepiece that lackshistory and tradition. There are a good number of fine young watchmakers and brands thatmerit great respect such as F.P.Journe, Kari Voutilainen and Stepan Sarpaneva. Will any of these brands become the“next Patek,” as you say? Time will tell. I suspect not and they probablydon’t wish to become that. They are creating their own history while advancing thetradition into which they’ve stepped.As for my “system,” theonly one to which I lay claim is the one by which I sort my socks. And that one reallyshouldn’t concern you.Question from a Watch KnobAlmighty Watch Snob, I have been reading your articles for awhile now. It seems like you know everything about every watch worth giving your Almightyattention too. But I want to ask your opinion on the Meister Ambassador in Champagne Gold/ White. I bought it a few months ago and I get great comments about it. People reallyseem to like the look. So if the watch connoisseur of Biblical proportions could let meknow what he thinks that would be great.While normally I am not averse topraise, I must confess I find this email, with its religious undertones, slightlymenacing. The fact that it comes from someone wearing such an atrociously derivative wasteof metal and Chinese labor makes me all the more suspicious as to your intentions. Youshould be hearing from my solicitor regarding the terms of the restraining order shortly. Continue Reading (http://www.askmen.com/fashion/mens-watches/watch-precision.html)
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The Watch Snob is in.How Much More Precise Are High Frequency Watches?Dear Snob,It seems like a lot of watchmakers are putting outmovements that beat at higher frequencies (I think Breguet introduced a movement at BaselWorldthat beats at 10 Hz). I can understand the claim that it increases precision, but howdifficult is it to actually produce such a movement and how much more precise are they? Is10 Hz that much better or that much more difficult to produce than 4 Hz or even 8Hz?A fine question and one for which I, and the other three readers whotruly care about horology, thank you. Those of you interested in matching your strap toyour shoes or which over-sized, overpriced sports watch to buy, you can skip ahead totoday’s third question.Many of the innovations and features watchmakersare devising these days are merely to prove what can be done, but done in the name ofprecision or utility. If watchmaking were purely about precision timekeeping, we could sayit reached its zenith with the development of the thermocompensated quartz movement or thesatellite-linked digital watch. But watchmaking is as much art as it is science. WhilePicasso was adept at realistic drawings, he chose to continually reinvent and challengehimself and that is what we know him for. So too haute horlogerie watchmakerspursue precision within the self-imposed confines of mechanical means. And this is why youdon’t see display casebacks on quartz watches.It is a known fact that the higher the frequency, the more precise a watchmovement will be. For most of horology’s history, watches have run at a balancefrequency of 18,000 oscillations per hour -- five ticks per second or 2.5 Hertz. Thisnumber represented the long-held limit of accepted durability of components, mainspringpower and lubrication. As technology and techniques advanced, this frequency was increasedto 3 Hz and 4 Hz, and the latter number is still the most common currently used.Of course, some Zeniths run at 5 Hz, and now the Breguet Classique Chronometrie runs at10 Hz, which, in theory, makes them more precise. But this does come at a cost: morefrequent service is required, in addition to tighter tolerances and lubricationrequirements. So to answer one of your questions, yes, high frequency movements are morechallenging to produce for a watch that will remain reliable for any length of time.To answer your other question about precision -- even a movement with a lower beatrate can be adjusted to great precision. While I am not one to obsessively track theaccuracy of my timepieces, I can say with some certainty that my 40-year-old Patek with a2.5 Hz movement keeps near perfect time.Class dismissed.The Values Of The SnobHi there,I have run into a conundrum regarding your rationalefor valuing certain watchmakers (e.g., Patek, A.Lange). A large part of what you value is their history and tradition of watchmaking,no? But isn’t this a dead end? If you assign less value to a timepiece which lackshistory and tradition, you would likely not purchase it or give a favorable impression inyour column, and the business would be less likely to flourish and develop any history ortradition. How will the next Patek be born under your system?Ithink you have sorely misinterpreted my opinions. I do not dismiss a timepiece that lackshistory and tradition. There are a good number of fine young watchmakers and brands thatmerit great respect such as F.P.Journe, Kari Voutilainen and Stepan Sarpaneva. Will any of these brands become the“next Patek,” as you say? Time will tell. I suspect not and they probablydon’t wish to become that. They are creating their own history while advancing thetradition into which they’ve stepped.As for my “system,” theonly one to which I lay claim is the one by which I sort my socks. And that one reallyshouldn’t concern you.Question from a Watch KnobAlmighty Watch Snob, I have been reading your articles for awhile now. It seems like you know everything about every watch worth giving your Almightyattention too. But I want to ask your opinion on the Meister Ambassador in Champagne Gold/ White. I bought it a few months ago and I get great comments about it. People reallyseem to like the look. So if the watch connoisseur of Biblical proportions could let meknow what he thinks that would be great.While normally I am not averse topraise, I must confess I find this email, with its religious undertones, slightlymenacing. The fact that it comes from someone wearing such an atrociously derivative wasteof metal and Chinese labor makes me all the more suspicious as to your intentions. Youshould be hearing from my solicitor regarding the terms of the restraining order shortly. Continue Reading (http://www.askmen.com/fashion/mens-watches/watch-precision.html)
http://www.askmen.com/fashion/mens-watches/watch-precision.html ( More...