The Watch Snob: Is Richard Mille Worth All The Hype?

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Richard Mille Watches

Dear Snob,

I have a question regarding Richard Mille watches.Enormous hype has recently surrounded the brand. I understand their movements aremanufactured by Renaud & Papi, and there is no doubt that they are very innovative intheir movements, designs and materials. At the same time, the prices they ask for theirwatches are far greater than the average RoyalOak Offshore. What are your thoughts and opinions of the brand and its watches?

Richard Mille, the man, is a bon vivant in every sense of the world,leading the life most of the readers of this website only dream about. He is alwaysshowing up at classic car races, sailing regattas and high-society soirees with asupermodel on his arm and rap stars fawning for his attention. Not bad for a short, baldwatchmaker. For leading exactly the life he wants, I cannot fault him and, in fact, Iapplaud him. We should all lead such a charmed life.

Richard Mille, the watchbrand, mimics its namesake in appeal and style. The watches are designed for shock value(and for measuring shock in some cases) instead of legibility, and would be suitable towear with virtually nothing besides a neon tennis jersey. It would be easy to dismissRichard Mille as a brand built merely on hype and celebrity, but this is one case in whichthe timepieces back it up with tour de force innovation, even if they are built forludicrous scenarios.

Would I ever wear a Richard Mille watch? If you’veread even a handful of my columns, you know the answer to that. If not, let’s justsay my tastes run to the more subtle and classic.
Graduation Watch For The Wealthy

Dear Snob,

Before I begin my question, I will inform you that Iam a high school student born into a very wealthy family on Fifth Avenue in New York, andI must say you do belong in my building because you are most definitely an ultimate snob.I am graduating in a couple of weeks, and am looking to get a graduation watch as a gift.To be honest, being 18 years old, I really don't want to wear more than a $20,000 watch atthis age, regardless if my parents will be willing to pay for more. I am open to both dressand sportwatches at this stage.

As much as I dislike Rolex (only because Ihate when the first thing people ask me when I wear a nice watch is, "Hey, nice Rolex"),the only model I care for is the Milgauss GV. I am also a big fan of the Royal Oak 2121,because I'd much rather be able to respond, "No, this is actually an AP." It's my firstchoice at this point, and I do remember you saying it could currently be the best movementin the world. The last watch on my mind is undoubtedly the Calatravain a rose-gold 5516 with a 215 calibre, which, in my opinion, is a classic and the mostcollectible watch in the world. Please correct me if I'm wrong -- although I'm not sureI'm ready for it. I'm open to all your recommendations, but look forward to hearingspecific thoughts on these three particular watches, and when I should wear what. Iappreciate your time.

When I left Le Rosey, I received a slim PatekCalatrava from my parents. I probably didn’t fully appreciate it at the time, but itset me on a path of horological enlightenment that has ultimately led to this ratherdubious position answering reader questions every week. Thanks, Mother and Father.

While some readers may dismiss your question as an elitist one from a fortunateson of the one percent, I would counter that the timepiece as a graduation gift is afitting tradition that has been largely lost in the fast-food nation. In Europe, almostevery lad, regardless of his parents' income, receives a watch when he graduates. It is afitting symbol of the move into adulthood, something that encourages responsibility andpunctuality and a respect for well-made things. So I congratulate you not only forgraduating but also for having such sensible parents.

As for your options, theRolexmight be fitting for a 20-year-old but will be tiresome and forgettable when you’re40. The Royal Oak is a nice choice, and a sports watch will suit your young lifestyle welland have lasting appeal. But the Patek is the one to get if it is on offer. More than anyother watch, a PatekPhilippe is perhaps the best choice for a commemorative gift and even though you thinkyou might not be ready for it, you’ll thank me for recommending it when you’rewriting this column in twenty years.
Question from a Watch Knob

You rarely mention Seiko, yetit makes its own movements, and the Grand Seiko line is right up there with the top Swisswatches and it has pioneered many innovations. Why doesn't it get love from the Snob?

Because it popularized not only the quartz watch but also the concept of thedisposable cheap watch. No Grand Seiko, no matter how well made it is, can erase thosesins. Continue Reading

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