The Watch Snob is in.The Brand With The Best Value

Dear Snob,I am looking for an upgrade to my "every occasion" Submariner andmy "special occasion" JLC ReversoDuo, and I do so love annual calendars. I can’t afford Patek or A. Lange, or evenGlashütte, so you can imagine my surprise when I found the Zenith Captain WinsorAnnual Calendar in steel with gold digits for a bit more than $8,000. Being totallyconfused, I ran out of the shop.Question: What’s wrong with it?An annual calendar automatic for less than 10K? Zenith is all in-house movements, right?Didn't they provide movements for the mighty Rolex in the past? Does that not mean theyare good watches? I read an article that said this watch uses the El Primero 36,000 vphmovement. Good news, right? Isn’t this movement supposed to be great?Don’t be mistaken that just because of my past statements about sub-$3,000 watchesthat I don’t pay attention to value. Let’s face it, Swiss watches areextremely overpriced, when you take into consideration their production costs. I’vespoken with many watchmakers from various prestigious brands (who shall remain nameless)and most cannot afford to wear the very pieces they are making. What this says to me isthat labor costs are not exactly commensurate with the highly skilled work these peopleare doing. And aside from an initial investment in research and development, the rawmaterials do not add up to the high prices being asked.Does this upset me? Notreally. As long as one approaches a watch purchase with eyes open, and acknowledges thatpart of the price paid is for exclusivity and prestige and overall brand traditions (notto mention the exchange rate on the Swiss Franc), one can justify his purchase, assuminghe’s not keeping food off his family’s table.Having said all this,Zenithmay just be the best value in timepieces available today. The brand’s entire lineupis of high quality, and its prices put manufacture movements within the realm ofpossibility for mortals like yourself. How can they do it? I would conjecture that it is arecovery effort by the brand to win back a customer base after some years of misguideddesign and company vision at the hands of its (thankfully) departed former dark lord,Thierry Nataf. And, frankly, the watches are priced where they should be. These are nothaute horlogerie watches by and large.I’ve no idea who Captain Winsor isor why he doesn’t have a “D” in his name. But an annual calendar is afine complication and matched to an El Primero chronograph makes it a watch to be takenseriously. Zenith is doing a good job of reinventing itself and its low prices should notbe a deterrent.Patek vs. Audemars Piguet?

Hi Snob,There are upcoming elections in my country, and theleading candidates have been accused of wearing expensivewatches. I believe the candidate with sympathies from the left uses two Patek PhilippeCalatravas (one steel or white gold, the other yellow gold), while the candidate of thecenter-right has a more eclectic collection that includes what appears to be a steelAudemars Piguet. Given only their watch selections, for which candidate would youvote?I am not sure why politicians’ timepiece choices create suchfuss with the media. These are powerful men who have, by and large, attained some level ofsuccess and often wealth. There are far worse ways they could be (and possibly are)spending their money. In fact, the world would be a far better place if it was run by menwith an appreciation for fine timepieces, with the possible exception of Sarkozy -- but,then, he’s French. In America, the presidents have taken watch shame to an extremelevel, wearing cheap Chinese-made rubbish in an effort to be more like Joe the Plumber.There was a time when the most powerful man in the world wore Rolex, Vulcain and Omega. Isit any wonder the country is in such a state of decline?Would I base my voteon which timepiece a candidate wears? I am hardly so shallow. But you are fortunate tohave as your choices two men with undoubtedly impeccable taste. I’m sure greatthings are in your nation’s future.Question from a Watch Knob

What do you think of watch winders like the “Oil Baron” from OriginTimes? I'm not sure how much it costs, but you have to admit that it's mechanical, clever,very original, beautiful and fun!No matter how clever a watch winder is,it will never be anything more than a bit player on the horological stage, and to give onea name is akin to naming one’s furnace or coffee maker. Continue Reading

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